Shrines of Italy: Church of SS. Giovanni & Reparata

The Church of SS. Giovanni and Reparata resides quietly in the shadow of its big brother, The Cathedral of Saint Martin, with the latter standing a mere 300ft from the former. The two churches are so close together in fact that it’s almost impossible to visit one without also discovering the other. And their close proximity is no accident, seeing as the Church of SS. Giovanni and Reparata was the original cathedral of Lucca before the construction of the Cathedral of Saint Martin.

Like its more famous counterpart, The Church of SS. Giovanni and Reparata is encircled by the medieval city wall surrounding the village of Lucca. What differentiates the two, apart from their size, is the fact that this church is home to one of the most important archaeological sites in the city.

This archaeological site is located in the foundations of the church with the ancient Baptistery being one of the most prominent discoveries. A metal walkway stretches across the entire sub-level of the church, enabling the curious visitor to access a variety of ancient structures, ranging from the 2nd Century Roman baths which once occupied this location, to the 4th century mosaic floor which once adorned the original church constructed later. This archaeological site is in many ways a snapshot of the evolution of Lucca from its foundation in Roman times up until the Middle Ages, as we can see through the stratigraphic succession of the structures here.

Most people who come here will definitely spend the majority of their time in the sub-level of the church, as it is by far the most intriguing aspect of it. That being said, there are a few other points of interest that are worth noting here.

One of these is the Chapel of Saint Ignatius, designed by Domenico Martinelli after the seventeenth-century Baroque style. Nearby, you can also find a Roman sarcophagus dated from the second century, as well as a variety of murals, frescoes, and some particularly life-like statues of Our Lord and Our Lady.

Before leaving this church, it’s worth climbing the 300 steps it takes to reach the top of the interior bell tower. The stairwell is a fairly modern design, and replaces the original steps. There isn’t much to say about the climb itself, besides the fact that it can be a bit vertigo inducing at times; especially at the end when the stairwell promptly transforms into a ladder.

The view from up top is impressive enough to make it worth the trip however, especially given how close the Cathedral of Saint Martin is from this vantage point.

Overall I’d say the Church of SS. Giovanni and Reparata is largely underrated. It may not be very elaborate, but it does offer a wealth of history to explore for those who take the time to look.