Shrines of Italy: Cathedral of Saint Andrew

The Italian coastline of Amalfi is famous for many things. More than 5 million people are drawn to the region each year thanks to its nearly 25 miles of picturesque villages, lemon terraces, vineyards, and massive cliffs which offer some adventurous hiking opportunities in addition to some incredible views of the Sea of Azure. These factors, combined with its reputation for hosting some of the finest cuisine in all of Italy have resulted in its recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

What brought me here in particular however, was the Cathedral of Saint Andrew’s; a predominately Romanesque style church with roots going back as far as the 9th Century. Of all the churches I’ve been to thus far, Saint Andrew’s has been the most difficult to reach. The severe parking limitations of the Amalfi Coast required me to leave my car at the top of the mountain before hiking down to the coastline itself. This path led me through a maze of back alleys, steep stair wells, and abandoned structures before finally emerging at the base of yet another staircase leading up to the church itself.

The exterior conveys an interesting story of near constant remodel over the centuries, with aspects of several architectural styles present throughout, including Roman, Gothic, Byzantine, Baroque, and even a touch of Arab-Norman, popularized by the ruler of Sicily, Roger II, in 1091.

It’s Gothic influence is made most apparent in the styling of its adjacent garden and courtyard, whereas the more eastern Arab influences are shown in the bell tower, which, despite being the most ornate bell tower in the region, was often used a defensive structure in times of war.

The interior of the church is where we find the more familiar Romanesque style on full display. The golden ceiling combined with the warm glow of the chandeliers makes for an impressive sight. Equally impressive is the massive painting located behind the main altar which depicts the crucifixion of Saint Andrew the Apostle. Throughout the main body of the church, there are numerous other treasures worth mentioning, such as one side altar dedicated to Our Lady, as well as a large reliquary containing a few relics from Saint Andrew himself.

According to what historical evidence we have, the remains of St. Andrew were brought to Amalfi from Constantinople in 1206 during the Fourth Crusade, and they were entombed below the church in a special crypt, which can still be visited today. The crypt itself bears a similar Romanesque style to the church above, with its most notable feature being a large statue of Saint Andrew above the altar where his remains are located.  

Upon exiting the crypt, you have the option to visit a small museum in one of the adjacent halls. Like most museums of its kind, it preserves a variety of ancient chalices, vestments, and monstrances that were once associated with the cathedral and its liturgical life. I didn’t find any artifacts in this museum of any major significance, but I find that it’s always worth a stop to admire some of the more obscure artwork that I otherwise might never have seen.

While I have no intention of returning, I found the Amalfi Coast and its main attraction to be an unforgettable experience, as most people do. Whether that experience entails distant admiration from the deck of a cruise ship, or hiking one of its many majestic trails, it never fails to uphold itself as one of the most attractive and unique locations in all of Italy.