Shrines of Italy: Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria

The Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria is one of the most popular shrines on the island of Sicily. It’s located in the heart of Palermo, not far from the city’s historic center, and it shares a great deal in common with the Church of Jesus, namely in its plain, unassuming exterior combined with its unexpectedly rich interior.

It was initially constructed in 1566 over the ruins of a pre-existing structure by order of the Dominican prioress: Sister Maria del Carretto, and it was eventually completed in 1596. Like many churches on the island, the Church of Saint Catherine suffered considerable damage during the Allied bombing raids of World War II. A great deal of care was subsequently taken to ensure that its restoration would retain the original grandeur of its unique architectural style.

The intricate design of the white marble, and the richness of the finer details in this church combine to create a magnificent showcase of Sicilian Baroque; a masterpiece which draws thousands of visitors to the island each year.

From the massive ceiling which depicts the Communion of Saints, to the smallest tile depicting some abstract pattern, there is artistry to be found in nearly every square inch of this church. What is perhaps most striking however, is the largest side-altar I’ve ever seen, which is dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria, and which also contains a familiar looking figurine. This figurine is simultaneously an interpretation of Our Lady of Fatima, and of The Dormition; that is the period of time between Our Lady’s death and her bodily Assumption into Heaven.

It's interesting that the Dominicans would choose Saint Catherine as the patroness of this church, given the lack of direct connection between the order and the saint. As you might recall, Saint Catherine was a martyr who lived in Egypt in the 4th Century while the Dominican Order was founded in the 15th Century by a Spanish priest. The choice becomes a bit more apparent however, as devotion to Saint Catherine was already widespread among the Sicilians at the time this church was constructed.

The adjacent monastery was occupied by the Dominicans from 1311 to 2014, at which time the property was turned over to the Sicilian government. In 2017, the monastery was opened to the public as a kind of museum. The Dominican’s lack of vocations and financial support are thought to be some of the contributing factors behind this abrupt change of ownership. Without the necessary funding to complete repairs on the ancient and often crumbling structure, I can only presume that the Dominicans had little choice in the matter.

Traversing this monastery long enough will bring you to a flight of stairs which will lead you though a dusty old attic, and up to the terraces from which you can take in the view of the narrow, crowded streets below. Oddly enough, the City of Palermo is so crowed that it’s difficult to view much of anything, even from this vantage point. The church’s dome is nonetheless an impressive sight, along with the famous Fontana Pretoria, one of the largest fountains found anywhere on the island.

Having travelled to the Southern-most regions of Italy, it is clear that the cities in the North are much wealthier, and have better adapted to life in the 21st Century. Even major historical monuments like this church seem to barely hold themselves together, amidst the obvious lack of financial and cultural interest in preserving them.

I am fortunate therefore to visit many of these shrines today. I don’t imagine most of them will be around for many centuries more.