Shrines of Italy: Cathedral of Saint Andrew
The Church of Saint Ignatius of Loyola is a 17th century Baroque masterpiece located in the center of Rome just a few blocks away from the Roman Pantheon. It was initially constructed in 1622 shortly after the canonization of Saint Ignatius, whom you might recall as the founder of the Jesuit Order. It functioned originally as a chapel for the adjacent Roman College, which later moved to a new location and was renamed as the Pontifical Gregorian University. Thereafter, the church was opened to public worship in 1650.
It is best known for its vaulted ceiling, which consists almost entirely of a single, enormous fresco depicting the many apostolic works of the Jesuit Order, and of Saint Ignatius in particular. It is believed to be the largest fresco in the world, and is considered a masterclass of illusionistic impressionism. As the eye is drawn upward, the perspective given is that of gazing beyond the ceiling itself and into the artist’s depiction of heaven. This illusion alone is enough to draw many thousands of travelers to the church each year.
Underneath this massive fresco is an elaborate sanctuary surrounded on three sides by vibrant paintings, each depicting a significant event in the history of the Jesuit Order. In sequential order, they reference the service of Saint Ignatius to various plague victims, the entry of Saint Francis Borgia into the Jesuit Order, and the missionary work of Saint Francis Xavier the in east Indies.
As with many Jesuit churches, the Church of Saint Ignatius contains several extravagant side-altars, such the Altar of the Anunciation shown here. Constructed in 1749, it bears a striking similarity to many other Jesuit altars I’ve seen previously in the city of Venice, particularly the corkscrew shaped marble columns. A small urn underneath the altar contains the remains of Saint John Berchmans, who was a philosophy student at the Roman College prior to its relocation.
Directly opposite of this altar is a twin which contains a depiction of Saint Aloysius Gonzaga. Similarly, this altar contains the remains of Saint Aloysius, and it was designed by the same architect as the Altar of the Annunciation.
Some less extravagant side altars can be found throughout this church as well, such the Altar of the Immaculate Heart, which is thought to have been commissioned in response to the church’s opening in 1650. That year coincided with a pontifical jubilee, and thus the altar was likely used in the ceremonial inauguration.
A fourth altar contains the remains of Saint Robert Bellarmine, encased in a metallic recreation of his likeness, and finally, a fifth altar displays a large Baroque style crucifix, surrounded on all sides by various relics of saints associated with the Jesuit Order.
In general, the Church of Saint Ignatius, strikes me as something of an epicenter for the history and activity of the Jesuits in Rome. The sheer number of saints associated with this church does a great deal to reinforce that perspective. The Church itself might be universal, but it’s a small world nonetheless.