Shrines of Italy: Basilica of Saint John Lateran

The Basilica of Saint John Lateran, also known as the Archbasilica of Saint John, is located in the center of Rome and is the oldest and highest-ranking of the four major papal basilicas in the city. The basilica itself dates back to the 4th century when the Roman Emperor Constantine donated a palace, known as the Lateran Palace, to the Bishop of Rome at the time, Pope Melchiade. The palace became the official residence of the Popes for several centuries, and it also hosted many significant church councils, which eventually came to be known as the Five Lateran Councils.

In the centuries that followed, the basilica was sacked by Barbarians, damaged by earthquakes, and even caught fire twice. Thus, it was constantly being renovated and restored. By the year 1377, following a period of exile in France, the papacy returned to Rome only to find the basilica uninhabitable. The papal residency was therefore moved to St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican where it remains to this day.

Several attempts were made to rebuild the basilica during this time, but it wasn’t until the sixteenth century during the reign of Pope Sixtus V that a project was finalized. He assigned the project to the Italian architect Domenico Fontana who erected the current edifice. Further changes were made in 1718 when the basilica was enshrined with it’s now famous statues of the 12 Apostles.

Today, the basilica is considered one of the most significant and beautiful shrines in all of Rome and thus it is visited by thousands of pilgrims each day. It is often referred to by the locals as the Mother of all Roman Churches, and it is home to some of the most important relics in the Church’s history. Specifically, the skulls of Saints Peter and Paul are housed within the massive baldacchino which covers the main altar.

Although St Peter’s Basilica is the final resting place of many former Popes, the Basilica of Saint John Lateran likewise contains the tombs of several Popes. Originally, there were 12 such tombs, but half of them were unfortunately destroyed during the fires of the 14th century.

The six tombs that remain belong to Popes Alexander III, Clement XII, Innocent III, Leo XIII, Martin V, and Sergius IV. These centuries-old resting places are themselves finely crafted works of art, and pilgrims often take it upon themselves to donate to the church by casting their loose change onto one of these tombs.

A small fee will give you access to one of the basilica’s private collections, which displays a variety of significant relics and magnificent artifacts from the Church’s long history. These artifacts range from historical vestments and liturgical vessels used by various saints, to extravagant reliquaries containing fragments of bone, to a collection of documents pertaining to some significant event in Church history. Many of them are associated with such familiar names as Francis of Assisi, Pius X, Joseph of Arimathea, and Mary Magdalene.

One relic in particular, a fragment of an ancient veil, is thought to have once belonged to the Virgin Mary herself.

Perhaps the most unexpected discovery in this room is a large display case containing the original papal bull promulgated by Pope John XXIII which called for the Second Vatican Council.

To the left of the main altar, you can find a small passageway leading into the remnants of a 13th century cloister, built by Pietro Vassalletto. It is the only surviving section of a former monastery built between the basilica and the ancient city walls. Considered a masterpiece of Cosmatesque art, the twisted marble columns and the simple elegance of the courtyard make it a worthwhile place to explore before heading across the street to visit the Scala Sancta, or The Holy Stairs.

The Scala Sancta, is a set of 28 marble steps located next to the Basilica of Saint John. According to tradition, the holy stairs are the original steps that Our Lord climbed on the way to His trial before Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem.

The Stairs were brought to Rome by Saint Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine, in the 4th century. She is said to have discovered the stairs in Jerusalem during an excavation of the palace of Pontius Pilate.

Over the centuries, the Holy Stairs have become an important pilgrimage site. Visitors are encouraged to climb the stairs on their knees, while medidating on Our Lord’s Passion. The stairs themselves are normally covered with wooden panels to protect them, and there are small openings in the panels that allow pilgrims to see and touch the marble steps. I myself was fortunate enough to climb these steps back in 2019, when they were briefly uncovered for the first time in almost 300 years.

These days, the Holy Stairs are largely synonymous with the basilica itself. Whether you choose to visit one, the other, or both, it is a powerful experience, and one that will likely remain with you for many years to come.