Shrines of Italy: Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls

The Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls is one of the 4 major basilicas in the city of Rome. As the names suggests, it is located just beyond the ancient city walls which once encompassed the southern reaches of the city. It’s roots go back as far as the 4th century, when it was first commissioned by Emperor Constantine over the tomb of Saint Paul, and later consecrated by Pope Sylvester in the year 324.

The Basilica’s location made it difficult for the Roman army to defend in times of war. Thus, it was surrounded on three sides by walls of its own; a defensive measure in ancient times, and an architectural highlight in modern times.

The massive portico which surrounds the entrance to the Basilica was designed as recently as the 19th century, and it is famous for its imposing statue of Saint Paul, its 150 Roman columns, and its enormous mosaic depicting Our Lord flanked by Saints Peter & Paul, as well as the prophets Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel and Daniel.

Upon entering the Basilica, one is immediately struck not only by the gold inlaid ceiling, but also by the realization of just how expansive the Basilica really is. At the time of this recording, during the height of the pandemic, it was almost entirely empty, further emphasizing the sheer vastness of the interior. A short glance to the left or the right reveals that there are in fact 4 separate rows of Roman columns supporting the Basilica’s overall structure, which is a notable contrast from smaller basilica’s which typically contain only two rows.

Approaching the sanctuary brings us to the main altar, which is notable not only for its unique design and elegance, but also for the artifacts it contains. A small stairway leads from the sanctuary down into a small devotional area which offers a glimpse of the historical tomb of Saint Paul the Apostle, as well as the chains which once bound him in prison shortly before his martyrdom in the First Century.

In 1198, during what is referred to as the “Golden Age of the Basilica,” Pope Innocent III commissioned the massive mosaic located behind the main altar. Its eastern style depiction of Christ and the Apostles is heavily inspired by the mosaics found in Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice. Underneath this mosaic is a papal chair fashioned from marble and guilded bronze. As the name implies, only the Pope himself is allowed to use this chair during liturgical ceremonies.

To the right of this chair is a massive side-altar dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady. Apart from its unusual size and location, the vibrant green marble adorning it makes it one of the more unique side-altars I have seen.

A casual glance at the walls, just above the Roman columns will reveal one the Basilica’s most famous decorative motifs. Strung in a seemingly endless pattern, are the painted portraits of every Pope in the history of the Church, from Saint Peter to Pope Francis. The first of these portraits were created as early as the fifth century. In recent times, a kind of local superstition developed which suggested that once the Basilica ran out of space for these portraits, that there would simply be no more popes to follow, and thus the end of days would commence. This fear became especially relevant in 2013 when only one spot remained after Pope Francis. Since that time, it appears that five additional spots were quickly added, thus buying humanity a little more time.

Attached to the Basilica grounds, you can find an ancient Benedictine Abbey, which remains at least partially active to this day. It boasts a familiar Cosmatesque style, similar to the courtyard of Saint John Lateran. While the latter contains the original papal bull which called for the Second Vatican Council, this particular abbey was the location from which John XXIII announced it. Associated with the abbey is an ancient library containing more than 10,000 books and manuscripts written between the 15th and 17th centuries.

In general, I would say the Basilica of Saint Paul represents in physical form what the Church itself represents in spirit. Having grown from humble beginnings into the magnificent edifice we see today, it is reminiscent of the parable of the mustard seed; and it reminds us that our greatest works can bear fruit for many lifetimes.