Shrines of Italy: Basilica of Saint Mary Major

The Basilica of Saint Mary Major in Rome is one of the most famous and beloved shrines in all of Italy. It is second only to the Vatican in terms of popularity and pilgrimage, welcoming many thousands of travelers each day.

The origins of the basilica date back to the 4th century when according to legend, the Virgin Mary appeared in a dream to Pope Liberius and to a wealthy Roman patrician named John. She instructed them to build a church dedicated to her on the Esquiline Hill in Rome. The next day, on August 5, of the year 352, the outline of the church was marked by an unexpected snowfall, which was seen as a miraculous sign, given that it was the middle of summer. The initial church was then built upon that exact spot and was appropriately named "Saint Mary of the Snows."

Each year, on August 5, a special ceremony commemorates the Miracle of the Snow with a cascade of white petals which descend from the coffered ceiling, blanketing the interior of the basilica in symbolic snowfall.

The general structure of the basilica as we know it today was established in the 5th century immediately following the Council of Ephesus in 431, which proclaimed Mary to be truly the Mother of God. Saint Mary of the Snows was subsequently expanded into the Basilica of Saint Mary Major at the request of Pope Sixtus III, with many additional renovations taking place in the centuries that followed. These renovations would culminate in the masterful blend of Romanesque, Byzantine, and Baroque architectural styles which have characterized the basilica throughout various periods of its history.

Underneath the main altar is a small devotional area known as the Crypt of the Nativity. Within this crypt is housed a reliquary, which is said to contain a fragment of wood from the Holy Crib; the manger in which Christ was placed after His birth. Additionally, the crypt contains a statue of Pope Pius IX, who famously requested that this holy relic be retained here. Lastly, this crypt is recorded as the place where Saint Ignatius of Loyola offered his first Mass upon his ordination to the priesthood in 1538.

In our continued exploration of this basilica, we find that the ornate ceiling is adorned with magnificent golden mosaics depicting the Coronation of Our Lady as well as various scenes from the life of Christ. The basilica also contains several side-chapels, each with its own unique history and significance.

There is for instance the Cappella Sistina, or Sistine Chapel, not to be confused with the more famous Sistine Chapel in the Vatican. This chapel was named after Pope Sixtus V, who commissioned its renovation in the late 16th century. It is best known for its exquisite frescoes depicting events from the life of the Our Lady, as well as the four angels supporting the golden ciborium, which is a model of the chapel itself.

To the left of the main altar is the famous Paolina Chapel, which is best known for its elaborate baroque architecture, as well as its unique depiction of the Madonna and Child. While this chapel is normally reserved for prayers and private masses, it nonetheless remains one of the most frequently visited areas of the basilica, and for good reason.

On the left side of the basilica itself, you can find a statue dedicated to the Queen of Peace, which was commissioned in 1918 as an act of thanksgiving for the end of the First World War. The Christ Child is depicted here holding an olive branch, while His Mother raises her hand, as if commanding an end to the violence. Her eyes are pointed downward to gaze upon the person who kneels before her.

The gaze of Our Lady is a persistent feeling here. It begins upon entering the basilica, intensifies as you explore its treasures, and becomes palpable upon encountering this statue. One can only presume that upon ordering the church’s construction, she already knew the names of each person who would one day walks its halls, and has been expecting them ever since.