Shrines of Italy: Saint Peter's Basilica

Of all the churches I’ve been to, Saint Peter’s Basilica is one which needs no introduction. It is the beating heart of Catholicism itself, a symbol of the universal Church throughout history, and the single, most magnificent shrine in existence today.

The last, and arguably the greatest of the 4 major basilica’s in Rome, Saint Peter’s Basilica is today the final destination of this video series. Ironically, this was not my first trip to the Vatican, nor was it the most significant. Those titles belong respectively to the years 2011 and 2019. In 2011, I was part of a tour group which attended a general audience with Pope Benedict XVI. I was pleasantly surprised upon editing this video to find some of the original footage from that audience. I wasn’t exactly an experienced videographer back then.

I would return to the Vatican twice in the year 2019. Once in the springtime with members of my family, and again in the winter with some friends who were lucky enough to acquire tickets to the Christmas Day midnight Mass inside the basilica. I can still vividly remember the procession, in which I immediately recognized Cardinal Raymond Burke, as well as Pope Francis himself. While it was certainly one of the most overcrowded events I’ve been to, it was also one the most memorable, and I’m glad I was able to attend at least once in my life.

The aesthetic of the Vatican at night and especially during the Christmas season, is almost magical. The glow of the city lights combine with those of the massive Christmas tree in the center of Saint Peter’s Square to create a stunning display that no video footage can really do justice to. This particular footage was recorded during the Christmas season of 2021, and I will say that the Vatican’s Nativity Scene of that year was eccentric at best. It was essentially a Peruvian interpretation made from ceramic figures originating from the town of Chopcca in the 1960’s and 70’s.

Saint Peter’s Square is no less impressive in the daylight, with its massive stone columns wrapping around the Square as if to embrace the travelers found within.

The Basilica itself boasts a remarkable history spanning many centuries. Its origins begin in the 4th century when Emperor Constantine constructed the original Basilica over the burial site of Saint Peter, chief of the Apostles, and the First Pope. It was here that Charlemagne was crowned Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire in the year 800. This original structure was modified and repaired many times over the centuries until roughly the 15th century by which time it had fallen into severe disrepair and was deemed inadequate for the growing number of pilgrims.

Thus, in the early 16th century, Pope Julius II initiated an ambitious project to completely rebuild the Basilica on a much grander scale. Several renowned architects were commissioned for this project, including Raphael, Bramante, and eventually Michelangelo, who played a crucial role in the basilica's overall design. Of the many key elements credited to Michelangelo, the most famous include His painting of the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel, the iconic dome of the Basilica itself which was considering a marvel of engineering at the time, and of course his magnificent sculpture, the Pieta.

Construction on this new Basilica lasted for well over a century, and was finally completed in 1626, under the papacy of Pope Urban VIII. From that moment on, it became the centerpiece of what would eventually become the Vatican City Sate. It’s artistic, spiritual, and historical significance cannot be overstated, as it has become the focal point for some of the Church’s most impactful religious ceremonies, dogmatic declarations, and ecumenical councils.

Even today, in the midst of rapidly declining spirituality among its members, the Church continues to receive millions of visitors to the Basilica each year. Of particular significance in this regard is a statue of Saint Peter himself which resides within the Basilica. There is a long-standing tradition by which pilgrims would kiss the foot of this statue as a gesture of respect. While most people opt for simply touching the toe of Saint Peter today, the uninterrupted centuries of this practice have worn away the toes, to the point where they can hardly be seen.

Architecturally, one of the most profound elements of Saint Peter’s is the main altar itself, which stands directly underneath the central dome. The sheer size of the altar, combined with its unique blend of Romanesque and Baroque styling make it one of the most recognizable aspects of the basilica. Perhaps most interestingly, the bronze metal used in the construction of the canopy was originally sourced from the dome of Pantheon.

Throughout the basilica’s expansive interior, you can find countless displays of profound spiritual and historical significance. These displays include the tombs of Pope Pius XI, John XXIII, and John Paul II just to name a few. There are more than 200 popes buried in the crypt underneath the basilica, with the most recent of course being Pope Benedict XVI.

In my own opinion, the journey to the top of Saint Peter’s Dome is the most rewarding aspect of any visit to the Vatican. Accessible through a small path to the right, this rigorous and claustrophobic climb requires you to ascend a grand total of 551 steps in order to reach the very top of the dome. This number can be significantly reduced to 320, if you choose to take the elevator about hallway up.

The first view you’ll be treated to is a close up of the dome’s interior as well as an inverse perspective of the main altar below. It’s worth stopping here a moment to admire the craftsmanship of Michelangelo, before continuing onward. Progression from this point becomes increasingly difficult as the stairwells begin to narrow, curve, and spiral as if they were part of some ancient medieval fortress.

Eventually, you will emerge from this confined space and find yourself atop the dome of Saint Peter’s, gazing out into the magnificent view of the square below and the city beyond. From this vantage point, you can see that the piazza is in fact shaped like a keyhole. This was done deliberately, as a symbolic reference to the keys given to Saint Peter by Christ.

Some other noteworthy views from this height include the 4,000 year old Egyptian Oblisk in the center of the square, which was erected by Pope Sixtus V in 1586, as well as a view of the famous Vatican gardens. These gardens are typically off limits to the public with the exception of special tours, and they are known to contain several points of interest such as a replica of the Grotto of Lourdes, as well as the Vatican Radio Tower and Vatican Observatory.

On the opposite side of the dome, there is another stairwell which will lead you back to the main entrance. About halfway down, you will find a large open area, which contains a small gift shop, and which affords the opportunity to take some pictures and view the reverse angle of the massive statues of Our Lord and the Apostles, which are typically seen lining the roof of basilica from the ground below.

Upon exiting the basilica itself, it’s worth visiting the Vatican Museums before completing your journey entirely. The Museums trace their origins back to the early 16th century when Pope Julius II donated a collection of ancient sculptures. Over the centuries, subsequent popes expanded the collections, acquiring and commissioning artworks from various periods and regions. Today, the museums boast an enormous collection spanning thousands of years, from ancient civilizations to contemporary art. By far, the most popular section of the Vatican Museums is the Sistine Chapel, which is best known for Michelangelo’s iconic paintings of the Creation of Adam, as well as the Last Judgment which covers the entire wall behind the main altar.

Additionally, the Vatican Museums are famous for their collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures, their galleries of tapestries and maps displaying the topographical information of Italy in the 16th Century, and also for their plethora of Egyptian artifacts.

It is difficult to fully appreciate the Vatican Museums in a single visit. The same could be said for Saint Peter’s Basilica, and for the Vatican itself. I am fortunate therefore, to have visited them multiple times in my life.

Perhaps equally difficult for me in particular is the realization that with the recording of this Basilica, my journey through Italy is now complete. The end of this video series coincides with the end of an era in my professional and personal life. And while I cannot say that there are no more stories to tell, or legends to chase, or places to be, I can say that I did what I set out to do, and I can admit that I’ve seen and done more in 6 years than many people will in a lifetime. As one journey ends, another inevitably begins. In that vein, it becomes appropriate to echo the sentiment of my original video as I sign off for the last time.

Today, it’s the Eternal City, tomorrow it’s the Eternal Kingdom.